Sigiriya Rock Revisited – in a Thunderstorm

Sigiriya Rock is an icon of Sri Lanka and the site of an ancient fortress and palace dating back to the fifth century. It is a vertical ascent of around 200 metres to its summit. It was included in a trip organised by the British Guild of Travel Writers.

I am not sure what motivated me when I decided to climb Sigiriya Rock for a second time on my third visit to Sri Lanka. Maybe it was because, since my first visit both knees had been replaces and just 6 months earlier the left knee had been operated on again, I needed to prove, to myself, I was still able to do it. Or, and this was more likely, the need to prove to others I could do it. I was travelling with a group and earlier in the trip I had decided not to join them on an early morning walk to watch the sunrise from the top of a hill. This was purely because I had found something more interesting to do and more pertinent to the articles I would be writing about the trip. I was aware my decision may have been viewed as ‘can’t’ rather than ‘have decided not to’. And today was the day.

Our tour guide had decided Sigiriya would be the last visit of the day. Not only was it getting late but dark clouds were gathering above us. On arrival we were met by other cohorts in our very large group leaving the site. I was envious as their ascent had not been under threat as the ominous clouds suggested ours might be. A local guide greeted us and started to go into a long explanation of the history of the Sigiriya Rock. I just wanted to get going and began to edge my way towards the entrance. I was called back for a group photo. I think the look on my face is indicative of my mood by this time. Oh no, you can’t actually see my face – I am the one wearing the pink cap.

By the time we started our ascent large globules of water had started to fall intermittently prompting a few drop outs including our tour guide. A few of us carried on despite ominous grumbles of thunder. Fortunately, the first shower did not last long so I did make the detour to see the rock paintings. I don’t remember having this option the first time I was here. I am sure I would have remembered the spiralling staircase clinging to the sheer cliff face with see-through steps. Having made the effort to get up there I was disappointed to discover photography was not allowed. And there was not chance I could risk shooting from the hip as we were being watched very carefully.

By the time we re-grouped at the Lion Gate, roughly half way to the top the heavens had opened again and shards of rain were bouncing off the ground around us. We shivered under a tree as we reviewed our options. Well, the others did, no turning back for me. Amazingly, the skies suddenly cleared and the sun came out. That was all the others needed and we set off again. The steps, a combination of staircases with railings and deep open stone steps, were very wet and very slippery. That second half of the ascent required a lot of concentration. I could feel the hesitation behind me but, head down I kept going. I was surprised how easy I was finding the ascent – must be the daily use of my exercise bike at home.

When I realised I was on my own I started to wonder if it was safe to keep going but then some encouragement from above made me look up. There was not much further to go and the shouts of ‘not much further’ had come from Phil, the fittest member of our group. He had already reached the top and was now on his way down. Encouraged by the thought at least one member of our group knew where I was, I kept going. The final series of steps were the original stone steps of the old fort at the top – now in ruins. I felt an incredible sense of triumph when I got to the top, which I shared with the only other people there, a young couple. They asked me if I was on my own and I had to say I did not know. It was a long time since I had seen or heard Liz or Lindsay. As I did not have much time before darkness fell, I rushed around taking photographs of the stunning view from the top of Sigiriya.

Imagine my surprise and joy when Liz and Lindsay suddenly appeared, accompanied by the local guide. I had been concerned about finding my way down on my own. Hugs and congratulations were followed by a photographs and then, unbelievably, the local guide launched into a long explanation of the ruins around us. I knew that for me descending would not be so easy. The sun had already set and darkness was drawing in. Rumbles and distant flashes also indicated the continuing presence of stormy weather. I crept away and started my descent anxious to get down the open, deep stone steps while it was still light. As I was easily the shortest of the three of us, they presented quite a challenge – as they were meant to as they would have acted as a defence.

I had negotiated the most difficult part of the descent by the time the others joined me. I noticed Liz was being escorted down the centre of the staircases by the local guide. Not for me – having once tumbled down two flights of stone steps my preference was to hug the side and cling to railways or walls. I even started going down backwards at one stage – quicker and safer in the conditions and entertaining as far as the others were concerned.  The local guide did offer his services but I politely refused. It had not occurred to me that he wanted us to walk down the centre without touching the iron railings due to the risk of a lightening strike. Ignorance was bliss. Once it got completely dark our only source of light was Liz’s mobile phone. I managed to stay close enough to the others to take advantage of the pool of light that surrounded us. Once we got down to the gardens streets illuminated our path to the coach that was waiting for us - and enthusiastic congratulations at having made it to the top. I kept smiling to myself throughout the evening – even more broadly when I learnt that less than half of our large group had succeeded in reaching the top of Sigiriya. Definitely a day to remember.

For more information about Sigiriya Rock clicke here