28 February 2024 - Santo Domingo to Samaná, Dominican Republic
Because I had arrived in the Colonial City of Santo Domingo late last night my only chance to see something of the capital of the Dominican Republic was an early morning walk. So, I was in breakfast as soon as it opened at 7 am and set off to see the city 30 minutes later. It was a dull morning so not great for photos. Fortunately, my hotel was close to the Cathedral of Santa Maria la Menor and a few minutes later I was admiring this massive sixteenth century building. It is the oldest in cathedral in the Americas. Next stop the port, dominated by a huge statue of Antonio de Montesinos and remnants of the colossal Ozama Fortress. Suddenly it was time to return to my hotel for a presentation. I raced up the hill and headed for my room – but got lost in the narrow corridors of hotel – and finally arrived, breathless, dragging my suitcase just one minute before the presentation was due to start.
Our meeting was an introduction to the TUI Care Foundation and the TUI Forests Programme. The TUI Care Foundation is a separate organisation from the TUI holiday company but is supported by the latter through the provision of transfers, office space and hotel accommodation. The Foundation establishes initiatives in the countries where the holiday company has a foothold. Today we are moving on to visit a project in the TUI Forests Programme – the restoration of mangrove forests in a National Park near Sanchez on the Samaná Peninsula. We emerged from our meeting to discover the road outside our hotel had been dug up and our bus could not get through to collect us. As a porter had taken charge of my case and there was confusion regarding the new pick-up point I set off to work it out. My whistle-stop tour of the town earlier had revealed a flight of steps down to the main road below. As soon as I set off down the steps the rest of the group, 11 of them, followed me, ignoring the pleas of the organisers to wait. My hunch proved correct and our bus was parked there – and my case was beside it. As we drove out of town we passed the massive Columbus Lighthouse. Built in the shape of a cross on the ground it is both a mausoleum to the explorer and a museum relating the history of the Dominican Republic as the gateway to the Americas. I was sad to leave our hotel, Hotel Nicolas de Ovando, a traditional Spanish-style building surrounding a large internal courtyard.
We had a 3-hour drive to the area where we were visiting a mangrove forest so we stopped for lunch on the way. The roadside café was a far cry from the luxury hotels that abound in the coastal areas and the roar of motorbikes punctuated out conversation. But the food was wholesome and it was a good opportunity to get to know my companions on this trip. A reception committee was waiting for us at the end of a muddy drive to the nursery where seedlings are propagated to plant in the surrounding mangrove forests. The work here is organised by paid workers supported by local volunteers. It seemed half the village was there and we had great fun posing them for a group photo. One of the aims of this project is to involve the villagers so they understand the work that is being done and get to love their mangrove forest.
Entry into this forest is via a newly constructed wooden bridge leading on to a long board walk that ends at a viewing platform by the sea. As we stood on this platform admiring the lush mangroves around us Patricia Lamelas, an award-winning conservationist, explained the work they were doing here to restore the mangrove forest. Large areas of this forest had been destroyed by commercial and agricultural activity in the area that ceased when the course of the river was changed. As we stood amongst the trees listening to the rustle of birds around us it was hard to believe trains had serviced a bustling port here. When the project is complete, the aim is to establish community-led visits here. I walked back along the boardwalk on my own – a lovely experience, tiny crabs scuttled across the boards and into the cracks in front of me and I saw a flash of blue through the trees as a blue heron took flight.
Our next stop was the Bahia San Lorenzo Fishermen’s Cooperative in Sánchez. This cooperative was set up to help the fisherman in the area which is so over-fished many of them are struggling to find work. Part of the problem is the use of illegal nets which means everything is being scoped up and shrimps, the main catch here are being taken before they are ready to eat. Although the nets are illegal there is no enforcement. So the cooperative is working to find alternative work for the fishermen. Kayaking has already been introduced and some land-based activities are in the pipeline. I was distracted by the amazing bird life in Samaná Bay and finally was able to politely excuse myself and return to the beach to watch the antics of brown pelicans, great egrets and snowy egrets.
Tonight we stayed in the Hotel Bahia Principe Samaná, another lovely hotel right by the sea. I was delighted to discover I could hear the sea in my room. Even better, the hotel shop sold adaptors so I no longer had to rely on other people to re-charge my batteries as I did not have the correct adaptor with me. Every trip I do I forget something so I have an impressive collection of ‘spares’ at home. As we have a very early start in the morning we did not linger over dinner. But, on returning to my room I noticed I had a Jacuzzi bath and could not resist the temptation of a bath and massage before going to bed.
29 February 2024 – Samaná to Punta Cana, Dominican Republic
Early start this morning so, as I made my way to breakfast I asked the hotel to organise the collection of my suitcase. The joys of staying in a 5-star hotel. I just have time for breakfast and a quick walk around the ground before we set off, heading back to Sanchez. Today we were taking a boat across Samaná Bay to see the newly planted mangrove forest. Our driver expertly negotiated his way through the morning rush hour – convoys of noisy motor cycles weaving in and out of old-fashioned lorries, battered vans and the occasional car.
It is a strange experience dipping in and out of tourist areas and real life here. On arrival in Sanchez we had to wait while numbers were agreed for the kayak experience and the kayaks were then collected and brought to the jetty. Once the kayaks had arrived we were divided into two groups and boarded two open boats with outboard motors.
As we only had one English speaking guide we made regular stops so information could be imparted to the whole group. There used to be coconut plantations in this area and the cooperation of farmers was vital to replace them with mangroves and restore the natural eco-system. Mangrove forests create a nature buffer zone and protect the island from hurricanes, they also function as a water filter and shrimps and other shellfish can find protection in their roots. The sun was shining and it was very pleasant being on the water in a sheltered bay.
To my delight we were surrounded by birds, on the water and in the sky above us – including the once rare frigate bird. We chugged a short distance along one of the rivers spilling into the bay before turning back to Sanchez. It was a bumpy ride as we were against the tide and, occasionally, water would splash into the boat. All morning we had seen rain clouds hovering over the main land and finally we met up with them. We just had to sit there and get wet. But our thoughtful hosts had booked a room in a local hotel so we had somewhere to get dry and change before heading to a local café for lunch.
We got used to places behaving as though they were not expecting us so were not surprised to find a bare table awaiting us in the café. Lena, the organiser of this trip, is super-efficient and sends the menu choices ahead but time-wise this makes no difference. But once drinks have been served, no-one cares anyway – even though we have a four-drive ahead of us. The journey passes quite pleasantly, especially for me. Having noticed no-one took the front seat of our little bus yesterday I asked permission to sit there today and enjoyed the changing scenery around me. We arrived at the next, and final hotel, RIU Palace Bavaro Dominican Republic, just in time for dinner. This hotel was a colourful contrast to the others and much larger with six different restaurants.
After dinner I am drawn to the Jacuzzi bath – in this hotel it occupies the bedroom rather than the bathroom but that does not trouble me. I fill it up, add a dash of shower gel and then slip into it, lean back and close my eyes. I have a sense of being surrounded so I open my eyes and discover I am surrounded – by mountains of foam that are getting higher and higher. I scramble out of the bath, fumble through the foam until I manage to switch the jets off and then scoop the foam back into the bath, and go to bed. I hope the foam it will disappear overnight.
01 March 2024 – Punta Cana, Dominican Republic
I woke up when my alarm goes off at 06:00. I am very relieved to see all the foam had gone and I can pull the plug out and let the water drain away. It is a lovely morning and we have a busy day ahead so, after a quick breakfast, I go for a walk. This hotel is right on the beach and it is exhilarating strolling on the sand a stiff breeze playing with my hair and the surf pounding in my ears. There is much hilarity when I join the group for our presentation this morning. I had shared am image of my foam mountain on our WhatsApp group and was assured it would be the memory of the week. It was funny in hindsight.
The presentation this morning related to the first of two projects we were learning about today, the TUI Academy. Pastries, coffee and water were available in our meeting room so I was very happy to tuck into a second breakfast. The Tui Care Foundation is involved in the establishment of training courses for the hospitality industry. These courses are aimed at the most disadvantaged and least likely to find work without help. We met three young women who had successfully completed the course and were now working in the Royalton Splash Hotel. We made our way there so we could see them in their work environment.
After seeing the three women in their work environment and taking photos we had lunch in the restaurant there. It had not taken me long to work out that the quickest way to get an alcoholic drink in the all-inclusive hotels here was to ask for a sparkling wine – whatever the meal. My companions were impressed when a waitress appeared almost immediately with a flute and a bottle and poured my drink at the table. Oh yes, I know how to live! After lunch we moved on to a project in the TUI Sea Change project. This project is based by the stunning Bávaro Beach in Punta Cana.
Our visit started with the opportunity to walk around the small museum with exhibits relating to the growing and planting of coral. We were then given an introduction to the work being done here before boarding a boat and setting off for the first of two sites where coral is being grown. We had the opportunity to go snorkelling here but I am not a great fan of getting wet so decided to remain on the boat. Next stop a floating café moored in the bay where we were treated to hot snacks and cold drinks. While we were on this vessel we were shown how to tie sprigs of coral from the nursery to the frames that would be lowered into the sea where they would continue to grow. Once they reach a certain height they will be transferred to a coral reef. We helped tie the coral to the frames before setting off again, with the frames, to a second site where they were lowered into the sea.
It was early evening by the time we returned to our hotel. We dined in Kulinarium this evening, one of the A La Carte Restaurants. It was my last evening in the Dominican Republic but, with a very early start the next morning it was also a short evening as I had to pack before going to bed. But I still found time for a wallow in the Jacuzzi bath – without the shower gel.
02 March 2024 – Whale Watching in the Dominican Republic
Our leader, Lena, has organised a special treat for us this morning, whale watching. But we have to leave at 05:40 as it is a 2-hour journey to the embarkation point, Sabana de la Mar. As it was still dark when we set off there was not much to see at first but as it got lighter it was fascinating to watch the Dominican Republic wake up. Groups of workmen were waiting by the roadside for the old North American school buses used to transport them to work.
A popular form of transport here is horseback. Horses can be seen grazing everywhere on the island and this morning many of them had been saddled (no stirrups) and were trotting along the roadside.
On arrival at Sabana de la Mar we ate the breakfast we brought with us – a selection of wraps - and used the facilities at the local café. No flush in one toilet, just a bucket of water. There was a toilet on our boat, a cubby hole at the front of the boat. I was very grateful I never felt the need throughout the trip. The sea was very rough and sometimes the boat was climbing waves as high as a house, and then dropping into the dip behind them, but I survived. I did not move around the boat until we started seeing whales. We had seven of them around us at one time. There was a mad scramble to get into a good position to take photographs. I did not get involved. The captain made space for me beside him and then held on to me so I could free my hands to take photos. Just watching the whales was good enough for me but I did manage to get a couple of good photos.
We were back at the hotel in time for lunch in the large buffet restaurant at our hotel. I used the courtesy room to shower before leaving for the airport. This was a mistake and I wished I had taken up the offer to use one of the bedrooms of those not departing until tomorrow. There were 3 showers in the women’s courtesy room and no privacy at all. I was showering in one of the cubicles when a whole family arrived – including father and son. I dare not leave the cubicle until they had gone so I was in there for ages. Finally, I crept out, dressed as quickly as I could and arrived in reception at the same time as my taxi driver – and started my journey home. It had been a great trip and very enlightening.
For more information about the TUI Care Foundation click here.
Valery Collins is the Experienced Traveller . An excellent raconteur, Valery has been writing about her experiences on the road since she started travelling 27 years ago. After publishing four books she turned to online travel writing.
