15 December - Tonight I trod in moonlight ….
My magical experience began when I met the guide, Marco, and ten other people at Patascoss a small settlement above Madonna di Campiglio in the Italian region of Trentino. This mountain resort in the Italian Dolomites is encircled by the Brenta Mountains. Before we started walking Marco told us about the unusual composition of the Dolomites, a calcium magnesium carbonate named for Dolomieu, a French mineralogist and geologist who was fascinated by the pink glow that hovers above the rugged peaks during sunset and sunrise. As we stood there the sun dipped down nature’s natural cathedrals across the valley in front of us and we were treated to a splendid display of enrosadira (Italian name for this phenomena) also known as alpenglow.
As the light faded, we set off on our walk, following a narrow snow-carpeted road through the trees that clothe the slopes of the Dolomites. Just as I thought I would need to use my phone to light my way the shard of a full moon penetrated the trees around us. The strength of this light was startling and sufficient to light our way along the road. We stopped occasionally along the way to listen to stories about the natural attributes along our route. In particular, we stopped to admire an enormous rock known as Sass del Bargianèla. The Bargianèla was a popular inn keeper who had been to the farm further along the road and was on his way home with his purchase, a calf. He was surprised by a bear on the road in front of him. Bears are indigenous to the area but generally more scared of us than we are of them. However, this bear was angry and attacked him. He managed to escape by clambering to the top of the rock and prayed to the Virgin Mary to save him. Almost immediately the cries of bear cubs were heard and the bear left her prey to attend to her babies. Soon after she had gone the Bargianèla climbed down from the rock and ran all the way back to his inn in the town. The calf, grateful for this diversion, had already made its escape.
Just before we reached Malga Ritorto we turned off the road and climbed to the top of a small mound. From here we had a good view of the mountainous landscape around us – bathed in the ghostly glow of moonlight. White streaks of the ski slopes glistened against a background of the black peaks. While we stood there Liuba recounted a legend of Trentino of which there are many. She also read us the words of the song Blue Moon in both Italian and English. By this time, I was on a real high and must confess to doing a little jig and breaking into song.
It was not long after this we arrived at Malga Ritorto. This combination of restaurant and farm offers local specialities using local produce. Twinkling fairy lights drew us inside and we were invited to take our places at the wooden tables in the cosy conservatory extension. I was soon warming my hands on a glass of Vin Brulé, the Italian version of mulled wine. Next, we had the choice of minestrone soup or a tasty goulash soup with croutons I chose the latter and it was delicious. The soup was followed by the traditional dessert here, apple strudel – not because the area was once part of the Austro-Hapsburg Empire but because the adjacent valley, Val de Sole is famous for its apple orchards.
After leaving Malga Ritorto it was a brisk walk back to the cars parked at Patascoss. As we crunched across the crispy snow our path was clearly lit by the natural light of the moon. What an incredible experience the snow moon is. A nocturnal outing beneath a full moon that reveals a world illuminated by its moon beams alone. A monthly winter treat included in the 5 out of 7 ski pass available in Madonna di Campiglio. Other delightful experiences are included in this unusual ski pass as I was to find out the next day.
16 December - A Dolomiti Natural Wellness Winter Experience
To say I had no idea what was going to happen today is not me exercising my scant regard to detail but the simple fact that anything could happen – it all depended on what nature had to show us. Striding along the road behind Nicola, the natural wellness expert and Paolo, a local alpine guide I started looking for clues regarding my activity this morning. It was a beautiful morning and I was seeing this part of Madonna di Campiglio, known as Nambino, at its best.
Soon after we swung off the road and started plodding through fresh snow in a wood of spruce (abete rossa) trees we stopped and Nicola suggested some deep breathing as we walked. This proved to be quite a heady experience. Another pause while Nicola explained why deep breathing while walking through trees is good for one’s health. A tree has the ability to provide oxygen, essential for all forms of life. Through a process known as photosynthesis, leaves take in carbon dioxide and water, convert it into food for the tree and then release oxygen into the air. I was also encouraged to eat mouthfuls of fresh snow from the pine needles (nature’s ice lolly) and chew (but not swallow) some. The latter produced a very strong balsamic flavour. The trunks of the larger trees were crusted with frozen resin. This is their way of protecting themselves when the bark is damaged. We broke some of and rolled it in our fingers to make it soft. Then it exudes a very strong scent which some may recognise as the Greek wine, retsina. We chewed on a twig from a larch (larici) tree which produces a very different flavour, reminiscent of liquorice. The long-lasting hard wood of this tree was used to support the islands of Venice.
I was encouraged to look around me and be aware of my surroundings to look out for things that are interesting but not to forget to look where I was putting my feet. It was Paolo who spotted some rabbit tracks in the snow. This prompted a lively discussion of the difference between a hare and a rabbit. It seems the Italians only differentiate between domestic rabbits (a popular sources of meat) and wild rabbits. Some time was devoted to admiring the beauty of a small pond, partially frozen and littered with snow-covered tussocks. Nicola also pointed out some exquisite snow flowers created when the air around the snow becomes humid and the flakes rise up and crystalise.
When we came to a clearing Nicola produced a flask of a tea made from honey, orange, apple and cinnamon. Once everyone had been poured a cup of this hot drink he suggested we each find our own space and just either stand or sit and enjoy our surroundings. I cleared the snow from a tree trunk and sat down. I closed my eyes and listened to the sounds of the forest, a trickle of water, a breath of wind, a rustle of leaves. Each one of us alone with our senses.
I was slightly alarmed when we moved on to another clearing covered with pristine snow and Nicola assured me I did not need to engage in the next activity. My mind was racing – were they going to strip naked and roll in the snow? No, it was much more genteel than that. Jackets and fleeces were peeled off, hand prints were made in the snow, arms and faces were washed with snow. Having insisted I would prefer to watch it suddenly seemed natural to follow suit. I did as they did and finished with a hearty snow scrub of my face. I did not feel the cold at all but was told this is normal. Fully clothed, we moved on re-tracing our steps, saying goodbye to the trees and returning to everyday life. But I learnt some lessons regarding the need to take time out to appreciate the nature around us. This was a very special experience for me.
PS It may look as though I wimped out of the face wash, but I did not - and I have witnesses.
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Valery Collins is the Experienced Traveller. An excellent raconteur, Valery has been writing about her experiences on the road since she started travelling 27 years ago. After publishing four books she turned to online travel writing and now contributes regularly to other travel-related websites.