Looking for Lemurs in Madagascar

It was a dream come true – standing in a forest in Madagascar watching some white, woolly lemurs frolicking in the branches above me. They were Verraux’s Sifaka Lemurs, with inscrutable black faces, one of a hundred species found on the island.

The lemur is unique to Madagascar. When the island became separated from the African mainland due to the break-up of the Gondwanaland super continent. Lemurs continued to develop here but died out on the mainland due to competition from the monkey, a stronger species. Lack of predators on Madagascar allowed the lemur to thrive and develop over 100 different species. But, following the arrival of man and devastating deforestation of the island the number of species was reduced by at least 15 as the largest species disappeared. Lemurs are now on the endangered lists despite poaching (for pets) and the introduction of protected forests. During my trip I visited five of these protected areas, Kirindy Forest, Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park, Marofandilia Nature Reserve, the Zazamalala Foundation and Ranomafana National Park. This involved a lot of driving, a breakdown, and long walks across the fascinating landscapes of Madagascar.

Hiking Through Kirindy Forest

A night walk through Kirindy Forest was my first attempt to find lemurs. Having ignored the suggestion in my itinerary that I bring a head light I had to manage with the light on my iPhone. Dolicia, our guide, did have a strong light with her but as four of us managed to lose her amongst the trees that did not help us. Or maybe it did as our little group was lucky enough to see all three of the nocturnal lemurs that live in the forest - the Gray Mouse Lemur, the Fork-Mark Lemur and the Red-Tailed Sportive Lemur.

Just as I thought this adventure was over, and was reluctantly climbing into our vehicle I heard excited shouts in the vicinity of the visitor centre. Our guide indicated we should follow the noise. Not sure what was happening I did as I was told and raced towards the visitor centre. We crept around the side of the building where the most peculiar creature I have even seen was scavenging overflowing food bins. A cat, dog or over-sized mongoose? It had characteristics of each one. It transpired we were watching a Fossa. This nocturnal creature is the lemurs’ only predator. But, tonight, it was more interested in the left-overs around the bins outside the café. We watched in awe as this strange mammal, associated with the mongoose family, went about its business seemingly unaware of our presence.

Early the next morning we returned to Kirindy Forest to explore further in the hope of seeing the diurnal lemurs that live here. We had been walking for a while when we heard a commotion in the trees above us. Two groups of Verraux’s Sifakas Lemurs were chasing each other from branch to branch of the canopy over our heads. I was transfixed watching these amazing creatures, unaware of my companions jostling for the best position to take photographs. I just wanted to enjoy the moment. When I did lift my camera, being short, I was finding it difficult to get a clear shot. The lemurs were quite a distance away as well. I suddenly caught sight of Bruno out of the corner of my eye – he was beckoning me to follow him. I left the group and followed him to a clearing where I had a clear view of the lemurs. Bruno, a Madagascan, was our local guide who travelled with us throughout the tour. He became my ally throughout the tour. Moving on we encountered another some more lemurs, a small group of Red Fronted Brown Lemurs. While I was watching them, I noticed one of them had come down on to the ground. Others followed so I crept along the same path hoping to get some good images. No one saw me leave the group apart from the vigilant guide, Dolicia who started urging me to re-join the group. I pretended not to hear her intent on getting some good photographs. I succeeded and then raced back to join the group which was heading out of the forest.

Crossing the Manambolo River in Madagascar

The wide, sluggish Manambolo River lay between us and our next destination Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. A few yards short of the river Tookie, our driver, asked us to get out of the van. Tookie’s English was sufficient regarding instructions and simple conversations. He looked about fifteen years old but I discovered he was a mature twenty-five year old and an excellent driver. We had been told to travel in the same vehicle every day and I was happy to comply. Once outside the van we climbed to the top of sand dune where we had a good view of the river below. No bridge just a large motorised wooden platform carrying several vehicles chugging towards the bank. Billows of grey smoke from the diesel engines floated around it. The loading and unloading operation took place simultaneously, directed by a gang of locals. It was precarious operation as each vehicle had to negotiate two narrow, portable ramps and then roar up a steep sandy slope. Once the operation was complete, we were told to board and then we stood amongst our vehicles as we did the forty-minute journey across the water, a dull shade of red due to the high iron content in the soil.

On reaching the other side we drove the short distance to the Mad Zebu restaurant in Belo sur Tsiribihina where we enjoyed an excellent lunch. My main course was a perfectly grilled zebu steak. The zebu is the local cow and dishes featuring this meat are very popular. Grilled to order in this restaurant it was delicious. After lunch we continued to the Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its karst limestone rock formations are stunning but very sharp in places. The name "Tsingy" is derived from a local word meaning "the place where one cannot walk barefoot". Several species of lemur live in the forests that surround this site but on our first walk through this rocky landscape, well, a scramble really, we did not encounter any. Nevertheless, I really enjoyed the challenge of negotiating the pinnacles and rope bridges across the chasms of this incredible landscape.

The next morning, while paddling along the Manambolo River in canoes we spotted some lemurs high in the trees on the banks of the river. But a second walk through the Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park did result in some good sightings of the Deckens Sifaka Lemurs and some Red Front Brown Lemurs. Although they were high up in the trees, we were able to get some good sightings due to a lack of foliage. I could have stayed there all day watching the lemurs in flight as they leapt from one branch to another. But my companions were not of the same opinion. It was a very hot day so I could understand their desire to return to the cooler environment of our hotel for lunch and a siesta. However, the following day yielded another opportunity to view some lemurs. After having lunch in the restaurant at Marofandilia Private Reserve we were invited to take a walk through the private reserve. This was a very different experience as the area is fenced in and the lemurs that live there are given food. I watched as a group of Verraux’s Sifaka Lemur sitting on the ground munching through a mound of fruit. When we moved on our guide enticed a nocturnal lemur, the Madame Berthe’s Mouse Lemur, out of his home by offering a treat. This provided an excellent sighing of a nocturnal lemur and a chance to appreciate their huge eyes – all the better to see in the dark.

I knew we would see more lemurs when we visited the Zazamalala Forest. Established by the Zazamalala Foundation it is part of their programme to protect endangered species in Madagascar through the conservation and re-generation of deciduous forests, community development and captive breeding. Eleven different species live in this forest but we only saw two of them during our guided walk, Veraux’s Sifaka Lemur and Red-fronted Brown Lemur. It was a fascinating tour of the forest and adjoining botanical gardens and good to know that there are active projects to protect lemurs in Madagascar.

Ranomafana National Park was my last hope of seeing lemurs in the wild during my stay in Madagascar. It was a challenging walk involving steep climbs and narrow paths through dense vegetation but I was determined not to give up (some did). After several disappointments, rushing to areas where the rare Golden Palm Lemur had just been seen only to find they had already moved on, we stumbled (literally) on a group of them. We enjoyed a few minutes’ peaceful viewing before another group arrived and joined in the jostling for the best position. Once again Bruno came to my rescue and lead me to a viewing point where I got some good photographs before other people joined me. The tough walking that morning took its toll on our group and only four of us embarked on the afternoon walk. This was a much easier walk. We only saw one lemur, the Red-tailed Sportive Lemur still in exactly the same position he was this morning. Conclusion, he sleeps with his eyes open. But we did learn about the indigenous fauna and some curious insects that inhabit it.

Before leaving Madagascar, I had one final sighting of a lemur and it was one I had not seen in the wild. Ring-tailed lemur in the town of Fianarantsoa. It was a reminder that these delightful creatures with their piercing gaze and playful nature make delightful pets. Despite legislation making the poaching of lemurs illegal it has not stopped.

I brought home some amazing images and wonderful memories of the lemurs in Madagascar and would love to go back to see how they are getting on. But for now my sightings are limited to the wildlife parks in the UK where some great conservation work is taking place.

Want to know more? Click here for information about Madagascar and here for the Zazamalala Foundation.