Tampere, Finland’s third largest city, lies between two beautiful lakes, Näsijärvi and Pyhäjärvi. These lakes are linked by the Tammerkoski, a channel of rapids, that flows through the city centre. Due to the hydro-power harnessed from these thundering waters Tampere became the centre of the industrial revolution in Finland and large red-brick factories were built around the Tammerkoski Rapids. Factories making cotton, paper, machinery, clothes, shoes and many other things sprang up during the first half of the nineteenth century. The town became known as the Manchester of Finland and to this day it is still referred to as Manse. When the factories ceased production towards the end of the twentieth century these buildings became the centre of a cultural revolution and the area became known as the Finlayson Area.
The Finlayson Area in Tampere, Finland
In 1820 James Finlayson, a Scotsman, established a cotton factory near the Tammerkoski Rapids. Only the brand Finlayson remains since the last factory ceased production in Tampere in 1999. The old factory buildings in this area now provide a unique venue for upmarket restaurants, cosy cafés, museums, exhibitions, music centres and venues for events. Tampere is renowned for its wide variety of museums including the Finnish Postal Museum, the Finnish Museum of Games, the Lenin Museum, the Spy Museum and Finland’s official Police Museum. Some of these are found in the Finlayson area including the Finnish Labour Museum.
The Finnish Labour Museum in Tampere, Finland
Werstas, the Finnish Labour Museum is a social history museum recording the history of the workforce in Finland. Here the focus is ordinary people and their everyday lives. A series of permanent galleries and temporary exhibitions take visitors through the history of the industrial era and other interesting events from different perspectives. On display in the Steam Engine Museum is the original Sulzer steam engine that used to produce power for the Finlayson cotton mill and the Industry Museum tells the story of Finnish industry both in the past and present. It is the largest, free museum in Finland and worth a visit. Cross the Tammerkoski rapids on Hämeensilta bridge and admire the statues of the Finnish Maiden, the Tax Collector, the Tradesman and the Hunter created by the sculptor Wäinö Aaltonen and head for the only Moomin Museum in the world.
The Moomin Museum in Tampere, Finland
The Moomin Museum is part of the Tampere Hall complex that occupies a corner of Sorsapuisto park, a green area that surrounds a small lake. This modern museum will delight and educate existing Moomin fans and provide an interesting experience for those with little knowledge of the delightful creatures that live in Moomin Valley. Created as an imaginary safe place during the Second World War by Finnish artist, writer and illustrator Tove Jansson, the books, comic strips and films were to become worldwide favourites. On display are the original illustrations of the books and comic strips and tableaux representing the adventures of the Moomins and their friends. Displays include a comet and an invisible friend who appears and accompanies visitors down the stairs to the lower section of the museum. A whole section of the museum is devoted to the story of Jansson’s life and her love of the sea and another woman. A workshop encourages both children and adults to play as Jansson firmly believed that adults should play. Adults and children have plenty of opportunity to play in the Särkänniemi Adventure Park which also features an art museum founded by art lover Sara Hildén.
The Sara Hildén Art Museum in Tampere, Finland
Situated on the shores of Lake Näsijärvi the Sara Hildén Art Museum focuses on international modernism and contemporary art. It is surrounded by a sculpture park which is often used as a backcloth for exhibits in temporary exhibitions as well as some permanent art installations. This purpose-built museum is the permanent home of a private collection that was donated to the Sara Hildén Foundation when it was founded in 1962. The foundation’s collection of more than five thousand works of modern and contemporary art, includes works by world famous artists and also some of renowned Finnish artists.
Visitors can pause for refreshments in the museum’s Café Sara, or may prefer to take the lift to the top of the observation tower, Näsinneula, next door. This tower has a café in the observation area on the penultimate level and a revolving restaurant on the top floor. Both have stunning views of the whole of Tampere below including Tampere Cathedral.
The Cathedral in Tampere, Finland
Tampere Cathedral, a Lutheran church, is probably the best example of the Finnish national romantic architectural style in the country. It was completed in 1907 and is also famous for the frescoes and paintings by Hugo Simberg that decorate its interior. Most notable is the frieze around the front of the gallery depicting young, naked boys carrying a garland of roses and thorns representing the ups and downs of our journey through life. Simberg’s obsession with death and the supernatural, displayed in his paintings and the stained-glass windows, has caused some controversy in the past when some parishioners interpreted them as symbols of sin and corruption. Visible in the high ceiling are two bullet holes – a reminder of the Civil War in 1918 when 1,700 citizens took refuge there. Nearby is the Central Fire Station, another building of architectural interest.
The Central Fire Station in Tampere, Finland
Today the Central Fire Station in Tampere comprises two parts linked by a footbridge, the original fire station and a modern extension that houses the fire engines. The original building was designed by the famous female architect Wivi Lönn. This pioneering Finnish female architect not only won the competition to design the fire station but also had a significant effect on the architecture of Tampere in the beginning of the 20th century. This art nouveau building was completed in 1908 and is still used for its original function although alterations were made during the 1920s when horse-driven fire engines were replaced by motor vehicles. Another art nouveau building of interest in Tampere is the Market Hall.
The Market Hall in Tampere, Finland
Opened in 1901 the Market Hall houses popular cafés and the stalls of local vendors selling fresh produce and local delicacies. This is the place to try the black sausage, mustamakkara, served with lingonberry jam. It may not look very appetising but it tastes really good. Another speciality available in the market is rievä, a thin mixed grain loaf traditionally baked from barley flour. This bread is usually served warm with a coating of slightly salted butter. More local delicacies are available at the little shops in the Stable Yards.
The Tallipiha Stable Yards in Tampere, Finland
The Stable Yards were built between1839 and 1890 near the home of Wilhelm von Nottbeck, then the owner of the Finlayson cotton factory to stable his horses. Several brightly coloured buildings in a cobbled yard housed horses, a carriage, the stable master, the stable man, a watchman and a driver. Folk architecture influences are seen in the decorative façades on these wooden buildings. As time went on factory workers moved into the houses and the factory’s horses were kept in the stables. These houses were restored by the city of Tampere in 1995 to replicate the way of life when they were built in historic Tallipiha. Today these beautiful wooden buildings are home to a café, Finnish handcraft shops and a chocolate emporium said to be the best chocolate shop in Finland.
Close to the Stable Yards, also in Näsinpuisto Park, is the Neo Baroque Näsilinna Palace, built by factory owner Peter von Nottbeck in1898. He was a bachelor and when he died young Näsilinna was left empty. Although it was bought by the city of Tampere in 1905 and became a museum in 1908 the house was still unoccupied and fell into ruin. It was restored in 2015. The first floor was done in early twentieth century style and the second floor is a museum relating the von Nottbeck family history during the same era. There is also a restaurant and a café and the grounds are open to the public. What better way to end a day exploring Tampere than to indulge in the favourite pastime of this city, the sauna. And where better than the combination of a sauna and dinner at Saunaravintola Kuuma.
Saunaravintola Kuuma in Tampere, Finland
The Finnish sauna is very important in Finnish culture and there are many public saunas in Tampere. Saunaravintola Kuuma is both a public sauna but also a restaurant serving traditional food in the middle of the city on the Tammerkoski that flows through the centre of Tampere. It has both a wood-heated sauna and a modern smoke sauna and the hottest löyly (the steam that is generated when water is poured over heated rocks in a sauna). Cool off in the freshwater dip outside in an enclosed area of the Tammerkoski. This popular restaurant has a large outdoor terrace and a cosy open fire indoors. The salmon soup served here is highly recommended.
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Getting There
Air Baltic operate flights from London Gatwick to Tampere via Riga, British Airways, Finnair and other main airlines operate regular flights to Helsinki from London and regional airports. From Helsinki there a direct long-distance train to Tampere. The train station is in the centre of Tampere but there is also a good network of public buses and trams.
Valery Collins is the Experienced Traveller . An excellent raconteur, Valery has been writing about her experiences on the road since she started travelling 28 years ago. After publishing four books she turned to online travel writing and now contributes to several different websites.