Morondava is situated on the coast of western Madagascar, the fourth largest island in the world. It is the administrative capital of Menabe, a relatively prosperous rice-growing area. Madagascar itself is one of the poorest countries in the world. But it has a lot to offer tourists prepared to venture that far and cope with an inadequate infra-structure and unmade roads. Although Morondava is a popular stop-over to visit some iconic sights of the island it is also worth spending time exploring the town which offers an interesting insight into the life of the Malagasy, inhabitants of Madagascar. The name of the town is derived from the Malagasy phrase morona lava which means long coast. Extensive sandy beaches fringe the northern side of Morondava. Essentially, there are three distinct areas within the town, the port, the old town and the large market. An early morning walk through the port is a good way to start exploring this fascinating town.
The Port of Morondava in Madagascar
A narrow lane leading to the port area of Morondava is lined with small wooden stalls selling local produce as well as the fish caught that morning. It is not unusual to see young children in charge of these stalls. Their natural friendliness is an indication of the lack of commercialism in this area. And so is their willingness to pose for photographs. But it is polite to ask first as some may prefer not to have their photograph taken.
Beyond the approach road, across the sandy beach, are rows of boats that have been dragged out of the water and will wait there until they are needed again. These vessels vary from large fishing boats to the smaller boats known as pirogues. These little boats are a popular mode of transport here as they are used to ferry people across the estuary – the town expanded to the far side the river as its population grew larger. Pirogue is a general term for any small boat including dugouts and canoes as well as the traditional fishing boat, a lakana (an outrigger canoe) with a sail. Priogues are available to hire here for boat trips to the fishing village of Belo sur Mer.
A constant stream of people crosses the river in large canoes. At low tide they have to break the journey on the sand spit in the middle of the river. After walking across the spit, they board a second canoe to reach the other side.
Strolling through the port is a fascinating experience. Most locals still make use of their heads to carry anything that can be balanced there from shopping to larger items. They have done this since childhood. Local street sellers patrol the area. These eager T-shirt and lamba (sarong) sellers never miss an opportunity to make a sale. The lamba in Madagascar is something of a fashion statement and worn by both men and women. Anyone who pauses to inspect this colourful merchandise will instantly be surrounded by traders anxious to make a sale. Bartering is normal here and Euros an acceptable currency.
It is a twenty-minute walk from the port of Morondava to the old town. There are two ways of covering this distance, by haling a cycle rickshaw, also known as the cyclo-pousse, the most popular form of local land-based transport or on foot, taking in the beach beyond the port. Morondava boasts beautiful beaches that never get crowded.
The Old Town of Morondava in Madagascar
Morondava is the usual chaotic mix of wooden sheds and modern malls found in most African towns. Its population has tripled in the last fifty years and the town has expanded with the addition of simple hotels up to 3 stars some of which are bungalow types using . Some of these are bungalow types site on the base camps abandoned by the oil companies. In December 2024 Wikipedia boasted (in French) that Morondava has “a town hall, a very dynamic chamber of commerce (with lots of information for investors), a post office, three pharmacies (with alternating night shifts), two hospitals (one of which is being modernised) and several dilapidated but competent health centres, several laboratories for medical analyses, several internet cafes, several dentists, many independent doctors, several small DIY stores (relatively well stocked), two bakers (including several pastry chefs), a real estate agency specialising mainly in rentals (and occasionally in sales), several villas with guest rooms and a large number of guides and tour operators (with 4x4s available), a petrol station and a nightclub.” But did not mention several churches, a large lycée, and a library.
Morondava is a diocese of the Roman Catholic church. Its cathedral, a large modern building in a leafy suburb of the town is open to the public. Dominating the town centre is the Catholic Ecole Notre Dame de la Salette Morondava which was originally established in 1912. It was extended to become a high school in 1965 where several future ministers of the First Malagasy Republic were educated – in French. Next to this college is a small catholic parish church, the Eglise Catholique Notre Dame de la Salette Morondava.
Also prominent in the town centre is the large Mosque of Morondava. A spending building that rises above its single storey neighbours and serves a significant community of Indo-Pakistanis. They are the descendants of traders that that arrived here at the time of the French colonization. Today immigration from Islamic countries is increasing their number. Freedom of religion is a provision of the constitution of Madagascar and, generally, the government upholds this provision. There is no state religions and half the indigenous population practice ancestor worship. The Lutheran faith is also popular in Madagascar.
Missionaries from America and Norway brought the Lutheran faith to Madagascar in the latter half of the nineteenth century. The popularity of this church led to it becoming autonomous in 1950 and being name the Malagasy Lutheran Church. This organisation is not purely evangelist but also runs hospitals, dispensaries and schools for the deaf throughout the country. In Morondava it is represented by the Lutheran Church Andakabe. When the Malagasy are not worshipping or working, they are shopping in the ubiquitous markets.
The Markets of Morondava
Morondava has both indoor and outdoor markets. The former sells fresh, real organic seasonal vegetables, fruits and meat. Bartering is expected. An extensive outdoor market is mainly found along one street in the town but there are stalls everywhere and some sellers operate out of small wooden huts. Typical produce on sale are sacks of charcoal, cereals, clothing and portable solar panels. These solar panels vary in size from the smallest that can power a radio to large versions that can power lights and televisions.
Attractions Local to Morondava
Close to Morondava is the Avenue of Baobabs. Giant, 800-year-old baobab trees line both sides of a stretch of road. All the remains of the dense tropical forests that once thrived in this area but have been cut down to make way for agriculture. These particular trees have been preserved for religious reasons. Kirindy Forest, home to local species of lemurs, is 60 kilometres from Morondava. To the north of Morondava is the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Tsingy de Bemaraha Nature Reserve but the poor condition of the road means it takes several hours to get there. Street art is popular in Madagascar and the Avenue of Baobabs is advertised in Morondava by a beautiful painting.
Getting to Morondava
The most popular and efficient ways to travel from the capital of Madagascar, Antanarivo, to Morondava is by air. A one-hour flight that lands in Moran Dover Airport on the towns eastern outskirts about 5 km in land of the old town. Travelling by road is more appealing than it was a few years ago due to recent upgrades but it is still a long journey that can take up to days to drive a distance of 660 kilometres.
Ethiopian Airlines operates regular flights from London to Antanarivo via Addis Ababa. This airline, considered to be the best African airline offers an efficent and friendly service and a luxurious business class.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity.com To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours in Morondava
Valery Collins is the Experienced Traveller. An excellent raconteur, Valery has been writing about her experiences on the road since she started travelling 28 years ago. After publishing four books she turned to online travel writing and now regularly contributes to several travel-related online publications.
