Visitors to the Sri Lankan town of Galle are surprised at the contrast between this coastal town and the other towns on the island. Open spaces cooled by a gentle sea breeze create a completely different atmosphere here thanks to the large, historic fort that has survived here for over 400 years. Galle (pronounced “Gaul”) is on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka. Its strategic position and a good natural harbour meant that, historically, it was important for trade which needed to be protected. It has been occupied by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British and they have all left their mark here.
The war-loving Portuguese built a fort here during the sixteenth century. During the seventeenth century this fort was captured and expanded by the Dutch. This profit-seeking nation used Galle as a base for the Dutch East India Company as Sri Lanka, or Ceylon as it was then called, was central to the company’s shipping routes. Galle Fort was quietly surrendered to the British at the end of the eighteenth century when the Dutch were defeated during the Napoleonic wars. Throughout the nineteenth century Galle remained the most important port for Sri Lanka. But by the beginning of the twentieth century the capital, Colombo, had become the more important port due to enlargement of its harbour. Galle then lapsed into a quiet backwater, its old colonial architecture unspoilt.
Interest in the town was re-generated here in1988 when the Old Town of Galle and its Fortifications was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. People moved into the old town. Colonial-style buildings lining the streets inside the fort were renovated to provide houses, hotels, shops and restaurants without changing their character. It found new prominence as a tourist destination; a major attraction is the walk along the old fort walls embracing the beautiful seascape beyond.
The Walls Surrounding Galle Fort in Galle
Still virtually intact the imposing walls of Galle Fort link a chain of fortified bastions, fourteen in total. A walk along along the fort walls is a must for the panoramic views of the ocean and a closer look at the fort's defensive structures. These once protected the traders’ ships coming in and out of the port. Today information boards offer an insight into the unique functions of each one. For example, the Star Bastion was also the gun powder magazine. The Dutch added to and enlarged the bastions built by the Portuguese in the seventeenth century creating the layout of the fort visitors can explore today. It is Sri Lanka’s best preserved colonial landscape. Inside the fort are several historic buildings including the Clock Tower that is visible when approaching the main entrance.
The Clock Tower inside Galle Fort in Galle
The Galle Fort Clock Tower, stands inside the Galle Fort but can be seen from the surrounding town. It was built in 1883 when the British were in occupation and funded by the people of Galle. It honours Dr Peter Daniel Anthonisz a Colonial Surgeon who was born in Galle and who cared for the people of the Southern Province of Sri Lanka. He also served on the Legislative Council of Ceylon, the first representative government body in Sri Lanka. The clock in the tower was gifted by a grateful patient of the doctor for the care he received. It no longer tells the time. The clock tower was built on the site of the old guardroom and overlooks the Moon Bastion. This bastion was built by the Portuguese and strengthened by the Dutch. By 1769 it had sixteen canons pointing north to repel any invaders attempting to approach inland. It also features statues of Dutch colonial soldiers. They are a visual reminder of the era when the Dutch occupied the fort. Another interesting reminder of this era is the Galle Fort Library.
The Library inside Galle Fort in Galle
The Library in Galle Fort on Church Street was established in 1832 and is probably the oldest public library in Sri Lanka. Its book cases hold several old and special texts. Galle is twinned with the city of Velsen in the Netherlands and their public library has sent many English language books to this library. The SOS foundation based in the city of Velson has also assisted the development and renovation of the Galle Library. This aid includs helping with the repair of the roof, renovating the rooms and book cases and donating funds to be used to stage special cultural events. The library is immediately next door to the Dutch Reformed Church, one of two Christian churches inside the fort.
The Churches inside Galle Fort in Galle
The original Dutch Reform Church on Church Street was built in 1640. This small chapel was on the same street as the present church but on the opposite side. When it became inadequate for a growing Protestant congregation a second, larger church was built on the same site, but this new church did not last long. In 1682 new foundations were laid for a third church on the other side of Church Street. Lack of funds delayed the construction of this church until 1752. But in 1701 a detached belfry was built to call worshippers to the old church on the same site. The bell in this belfry was cast in 1709. The stand-alone Old Dutch Belfry is still intact and represents a stunning example of colonial architecture.
The Dutch Reform Church that stands on Church Street today finally opened for worship in 1752 and was very active for the remaining forty years of the Dutch occupation. During the British occupation it was the centre of a separate but smaller community. Today, despite a dwindling congregation it is still a place of worship as well as an historical monument. Although it is renowned for its simple architecture it does have an unusual interior. Its floor is paved with gravestones from Dutch cemeteries and it has large calamander wood pulpit topped with a hexagonal canopy. The impressive All Saints’ Church is a short distance from the Dutch Reform Church, also on Church Road.
The All Saints' Church is a good example of Anglican church architecture in the nineteenth century which evolved from the Victorian Gothic Revival. Its cruciform layout is typical of these churches. This church was built as a place of worship for the British community between 1868 and 1871 and services are still held there. An interesting feature of this church is the locally sourced materials used in its construction blending European design with the skills of Sri Lankan artisans. The timber arches and steep-pitched roofs not only add to the grandeur of this building but also work as ventilation in the hot climate. Galle is known for its religious tolerance as illustrate by the presence of a Buddhist temple and a mosque inside its walls.
The Temples inside Galle Fort in Galle
Sudharmalaya Temple is a Buddhist temple inside the Galle Fort. It is situated right in the heart of the fort on its main street, Rampart Street, opposite the Clippenberg Bastion. This temple faces the sea across the bastion. Inside there is a prayer hall and a reclining Buddha. It also has a mini stupa dating back to 1889. A small belfry on top of the prayer hall suggests this temple may have once been used as a church. More than half the population in Galle is Muslim and they worship at the Meeran Mosque, found at the end of Rampart Street, opposite the Lighthouse.
The Lighthouse inside Galle Fort in Galle
The Lighthouse perched on the Point Utrecht Bastion was built by the British in 1939. This bastion is named after the first Dutch clergyman who arrived on the island in 1641. But this lighthouse is not the one that originally graced this bastion warning ships of the rocky approach to this shore. The original lighthouse was built 1848 and had a view of the whole harbour. That one was destroyed in a fire in and a new inland lighthouse was built here in 1939. This beautiful white building is deemed to be the oldest lighthouse in Sri Lanka. Originally the lighthouse had a glass prism sitting in a mercury bath to keep the light level and allow it to rotate easily. The lighthouse keeper had to remove dirt and debris on the surface of the mercury and clean it periodically. Now the lighthouse is fully automated but there is still a lighthouse keeper in case of a power cut. Just beyond this bastion is the Flag Rock Bastion, a popular viewpoint.
Flag Rock Bastion inside Galle Fort in Galle
The walk on the ramparts leads from the lighthouse to Flag Rock a bastion at the southern tip of the fort. From this bastion that the Dutch would use flags to warn approaching ships that there were dangerous rocks ahead. If the visibility was so bad the flags could not be seen then shots would be fired from Pigeon Island close to this bastion. They continued to do this until the fort was surrendered to the British in 1796. Today this bastion is a popular viewpoint to watch the sun rising or setting. Two museums inside Galle Fort are good places to learn more about the history of the fort and the maritime history of Sri Lanka.
The Museums inside Galle Fort in Galle
The National Maritime Museum is located in an old Dutch warehouse built in 1671 and was opened to the public in 1992. It was flooded during the tsunami of 2004 and 80% of its exhibits were either badly damaged or swept out to sea. Thanks to a collaboration between the Sri Lankan government and the Netherlands Cultural Co-operation Program the museum was renovated and re-opened in 2010. The two-storey building this museum occupies is bisected by the original entrance to the fort. Above this old gate is the British Coat of Arms. Exhibits relating to shipwrecks and trade provide an insight into the maritime history of Galle. The Historical Mansion Museum on Leyn Baan Street occupies an old Dutch mansion house built around 1763. This house has been converted into a museum displaying historical artefacts from the colonial period amongst other eras including Dutch East India china and ceramics. It also hosts demonstrations of old handicraft techniques such as gem cutting and lace embroidery. Entrance to this museum is free. Another historic building that has been successfully re-purposed is the Old Dutch Hospital.
The Old Dutch Hospital inside Galle Fort in Galle
This old two-storey colonial building did start life as a hospital. It was built by the Dutch to provide medical care for officers and other staff serving the Dutch East India Company. It was built during the seventeenth century on the site of the Portuguese mint in Hospital Road. During the British occupation the hospital was converted into barracks in 1850 and then used as an office for the District Chief Administrator. Once Sri Lanka gained independence in 1948 the building became the Galle Town Hall. When it became too small for this purpose new offices were added. Finally, the municipal council moved into new premises and in 2003 the council offices were relocated. The old hospital then underwent a series of renovations that restored and preserved its original architecture – two central courtyards and long, colonnaded verandas. In 2014 it was formally opened as a shopping and dining area which has become very popular.
Beyond the fort Galle is a vibrant jumble of narrow streets where visitors browse the shops and seek refreshment in the bars and restaurants that line them enjoying the flavours of Sri Lanka.
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Valery Collins is the Experienced Traveller.
An excellent raconteur, Valery has been writing about her experiences on the road since she started travelling 30 years ago. After publishing four books she turned to online travel writing.