Changsha, an ancient city and capital of Hunan province, evolved from a first century settlement along the east bank of the Xiangjiang River. Expansion along the east bank of the river was inhibited by flooding. During the twentieth century a rapidly expanding population necessitated expansion along the west bank of the river which is now a modern commercial centre and home to large, modern cultural buildings which house ancient artefacts that illustrate the fascinating history of the town. Highlights include a rare collection from the excavated Mawangdui tombs constructed during the Western Han dynasty and its association with a young Chairman Mao. Pockets of historic buildings in the old town still practice ancient traditions and Pozi street is one of four streets that have traversed this town for over a thousand years.
Pozi Street in Changsha, China
Pozi Jie or Pozi Street in the old town has achieved fame as the most traditional food street in Changsha. On this street is an old temple originally dedicated to a deity of fire. Originally people would visit the temple to offer sacrifices to this god of fire. As time went by it became a focal point on Fire Deity Day every year. Events held here included a sacrificial ceremony, a fair and other activities including food stalls and shops. The building is no longer a place of worship. It has retained its original architectural style but is now home to several permanent snack shops and restaurants. This is a good place to try some favourite local snacks including Stinky Tofu. The small courtyard is home to several small shops and troops of dancers often perform here. Close to the Temple of Fire, at the end of a narrow alley is a typical Chinese food market.
This little food market is a great example of the wide variety of street food enjoyed by the Chinese. Every grub and bug imaginable grilled and skewered from scorpions to centipedes. This is where the locals gather to eat at the small tables seated on low stools. Their choice of food having been freshly cooked on the burners behind the stalls. Chunks of meat and slices of vegetables on skewers are displayed in large bowls on tables in front of the stalls. Another interesting place to enjoy some traditional Chinese cuisine is Wenheyou in the city centre.
Wenheyou in Changsha, China
Re-visit the retro streets of Changsha in the 1980’s at Wenheyou. This multi-storey building in Hisense Plaza encapsulates the atmosphere of that era. Start in the narrow street on its ground floor lined with little shops and snack food cafés. Walk up several flights of open stairs that go up to the restaurant on the top floor. This restaurant is famous for its authentic Changsha cuisine including spicy crawfish, lamb skewers and spicy chicken feet. Every one of several floors in this building exhibits a different theme that reflects the charm of old Changsha. It even has an old cable car to convey visitors from top to bottom. Eating and education have always been popular themes in Changsha which is home to the Yue Lu Academy the third oldest operating university in the world.
Yue Lu Academy in Changsha, China
Yue Lu Academy was established in the year 976 at the foot of the Yuelu Mountain. This natural setting enhances the beauty of its beautiful traditional architecture and quiet courtyards. The perfect place for learning and contemplation. Since its inception it has been extended and undergone name changes. In 1903 it became the Hunan Institute of Higher Learning, then, successively the Hunan Normal College and the Hunan Public Polytechnic School. Finally, in 1926, it was named the Hunan University. Its elegant buildings spanning different architectural periods feature the Entrance Gate, Hexi Terrace, the Main Gate, the Second Gate, the Lecture Hall and the Imperial Book Tower. Inscriptions on these buildings include 'the Thousand-Year-Old Academy' at the entrance and 'Happiness and Longevity' on the Hexi Terrace. The Academy is a living museum whereas much of Changsha’s fascinating history is now related through ancient artefacts in modern structures such as the Hunan Provincial Museum.
Hunan Provincial Museum in Changsha, China
Established during the 1950s, Hunan Provincial Museum, is next to the Revolutionary Martyr’s Park. A large new exhibition hall was added in the late 1990s. The Mawangdui Han Tombs Exhibition is one of five permanent exhibitions at this museum. Unearthing the Mawangdui Han Tombs was one of the most significant discoveries in the world during the twentieth century. The fully preserved tomb structure and a wealth of funerary items are on display in the museum. An interesting insight into everyday life and burials during the Han Dynasty. The three tombs were constructed during the second century by the marquess of Dai, for himself, his wife and his son. Also on display is the well-preserved body of Lady Xin Zhui, wife of the marquess. This museum has the facilities to house temporary exhibitions. Changsha also has an impressive museum, Changsha Museum, dedicated to the town which is situated in the Riverside Culture Park.
The Riverside Culture Park in Changsha, China
Changsha Museum, which was founded in 1986, moved to its present home in 20215 and is now part of the Riverside Culture Park which was built in 2017. The Riverside Culture Park was an ambitious project as part of the plan to develop the west bank of the Xiangjiang River to cope with rapid expansion of Changsha at the beginning of the twenty-first century. This waterfront park combines culture, commerce and recreation and celebrates Changsha’s new relationship with its main river, hitherto prone to flooding. The site was once occupied by Yuxiang Cotton Mill and Changsha Shipyard both vital during the towns industrialisation – a history reflected in sculptures and installations here. Changsha Museum is dedicated to Changsha and has two permanent exhibitions presenting ancient and modern Changsha. This museum also features special exhibitions which are regularly updated and exchange exhibitions. A large open space is in the museum is ideal for presenting cultural shows combining traditional Chinese musical instruments and dance. Close to the museum are the Changsha Concert Hall, Changsha Planning Exhibition Hall and Changsha Library.
The Changsha Planning Exhibition Hall also opened in 2015. Its theme is Changsha, My Home and its hall is divided into four exhibition areas: Changsha Overview, Exploring Old Changsha, Planning for New Changsha and City of Fantasy 2050. The Changsha Concert purports to be one of the finest music venues in South Central China with its good acoustics and large auditorium that seats 1500 people. Another waterside cultural venue in Changsha is the Changsha Meixihu International Culture & Arts Centre.
Changsha Meixihu International Culture & Arts Centre in Changsha, China
The Changsha Meixihu International Culture & Arts Centre on the banks of the Meixihu Lake was completed in 2019 and features three white wave-shaped buildings. It was designed as the cultural centre of Changsha and has three main buildings, the Grand Theatre (1800 seats), the Museum of Modern Art and the Small Theatre. The latter is a multi-functional space designed to host a wide variety of events from chamber music performances and fashion shows to banquets and commercial exhibitions. Pedestrian paths through the landscaped area that surrounds the centre connect with neighbouring streets and provide access to the lakeside recreational area that incorporates the Festive Island in the lake. One of the most popular water-based activities in Changsha is an evening cruise on the Xiangjiang River
Evening River Cruise on the Xiangjiang River in Changsha, China
As dusk creeps into Changsha the skyscrapers that line both banks of the Xiangjiang River start lighting up. The best way to enjoy this stunning spectacle is to take an evening cruise along the river. All these giant structures are lit up and their colourful shapes shimmer in the black waters of the river below them. Choreographed light effects across some of the buildings enhance this fabulous display. The boats cruise along the river, under floodlit bridges to Orange Island. From the water there is an excellent view of the floodlit statue of a young Chairman Mao Zedong. The Orange Island Park is one of Changsha’s most important attractions.
Orange Island Park in Changsha, China
Since ancient times, Orange Island, also known as Juzizhou Island, has been famous as the producer of high-quality oranges hence the name. This long narrow island that resembles a green ship sailing through the centre of Changsha (from a distance). It is five kilometres long and the world’s longest inland river island. This was where a young Mao Zedong spent a lot of time a fact commemorated by a huge statue of his head and shoulders sculpted in granite. Other attractions on the island include the Asking-Heaven Platform, the 100 Metre Fountain and the Beach Park.
Getting There
The best way to enjoy Changsha and other highlights of Hunan province in China is on a Wendy Wu tour of China. This tour operator operates several tours that visit Changsha including two new tours. The "Gems of China" tour is a comprehensive 16-day journey through China's most iconic sites. ‘Natural Treasures of China’ tour is a journey that showcases China's most stunning natural wonders and cultural highlights. More details here.
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Valery Collins is the Experienced Traveller. An excellent raconteur, Valery has been writing about her experiences on the road since she started travelling 28 years ago. After publishing four books she turned to online travel writing and now regularly contributes to several travel-related online publications.
