Brantôme-en-Périgord in the Dordogne, considered to be one of the most beautiful places in the region, owes its existence to the magnificent abbey that overshadows it.
The pretty village of Brantôme nestles in a curve of the Dronne River with a splendid abbey on one bank and an intriguing old town on the other. Five stone bridges cross the river between the two. For this reason, the town acquired its nickname, the Venice of Périgord, as the river does not just flow through it but surrounds it. The canal that carries the water around the old town created the island it occupies today. This canal was constructed by the same monks that built the abbey in order to bring water into the town to irrigate the land and power its mills. On the outskirts of the town is their old garden, Jardin des Moines, now a public park.
Jardin des Moines in Brantôme
Jardin des Moines (Monks’ Garden) was originally a pleasure garden created from a former hemp field by the then abbot of Brantôme during the mid-sixteenth century. Three Renaissance resting places with Italian-inspired motifs are still in this garden which is now open to the public. This shady riverside park is the site of the monthly flea market (brocante) that is held in the town. This professional this professional flea market which goes on all day is one of the most reputable in the area. Professional market traders bring their best finds here - antiques, antique furniture, art objects, trinkets, paintings, silverware, and diverse curiosities. Entrance is free and there is on-site catering. Brantôme also has a weekly market which is held every Friday in the old town’s market square and stretches across the bridge to the other side of the river. This lively market is also very popular and features a great variety of stalls from fresh local. It is a great opportunity sample some Périgord specialities including truffles, foie gras, walnuts, and strawberries. The Jardin des Moines was connected to the abbey by the medieval stone bridge, Pont Coudé.
The Pont Coudé in Brantôme
The Pont Coudé which translates as the Bent Bridge is more than just a means to cross the Dronne River. Built in the sixteenth century it has a special shape and buttresses so it could span both the Dronne River and the weir. It had to be able to resist the currents which are sometimes very strong and provide access to clear any debris that may accumulate. A bend was incorporated in the bridge so that carts could take their goods directly into the grounds of the abbey. From this bridge there is an excellent view of the Moulin de l’Abbaye.
Moulin de l’Abbaye in Brantôme
The Moulin de l'Abbaye (Abbey Mill) was built during the fifteenth century as part of the abbey’s infrastructure. During its long history it has been used to grind grain for the monks, spin and weave wool and produce electricity for the local community. It ceased operations as an industrial mill around the end of the nineteenth century. During the nineteenth century to stables and outbuildings had been expanded to accommodate the master miller and his family. In the 1980s the mill was completely renovated. The original stone brickwork was preserved and beams were exposed to create the first luxury hotel in Brantôme. Today this beautiful, ivy-covered building continues to operate as a luxury hotel retaining is original name. At the end of the bridge are the Renaissance Pavilion and the Tour de Saint Roch.
Renaissance Pavilion and the Tour de Saint Roch in Brantôme
The Renaissance Pavilion (or guard house), constructed in the architectural style of the period it is named after, was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century. It was restored in 1910 and includes a bas-relief depicting Saint Jerome. It is thought it replaced a round tower on the same site. It faces a round tower of the Abbey, the Tour de Saint Roch. The two buildings were once connected by a gate with a parapet walk above that served as a defence for the abbey complex. Known as the Porte Saint Roch (Saint-Roch Gate) it defended the south side of the abbey. It was one of two fortified gates and the other, the Porte des Reformes (Reforms Gate) defended the north side of the abbey. This gate has been widened rather than being demolished. Between the two gates is the Benedictine Abbey.
The Origins of the Abbaye de Brantôme
According to legend the Benedictine Abbaye de Brantôme (Brantôme Abbey) dedicated to Saint Pierre and Saint Sicarius was founded by Charlemagne (Charles the Great) in the ninth century. The belief is that Charlemagne donated some of the remains of Saint Sicarius to the town with the condition that the monks there built an abbey to house them. Saint Sicarius was one of the Holy Innocents who died when King Herod., afraid of the coming of the King of the Jews, ordered the killing of all newborn male infants in and around Bethlehem. Enshrined in the abbey these relics became the centre of worship here. They survived the turbulent times of the French Revolution and are housed in the Abbey Church of St Peter. Every year Saint Sicarius of Brantôme is celebrated as a symbol of innocent martyrdom on his feast day, 2 May. The elegant frontage of the abbey features another Renaissance delight, La Fontaine Médicis (Medici Fountain), the centrepiece in the abbots’ old private garden. But behind this building is the original troglodyte home of the monks – where it all began.
Troglodyte Caves in Brantôme
It was during the fifth century that pagans and hermits discovered the natural troglodyte shelters in the caves penetration the limestone cliff beside the Dronne River. When the Benedictine monks arrived here during the eighth century they found the perfect site for their needs – protection in the caves and water from the river to irrigate the crops. Initially, the monks lived and worshipped in the caves but gradually the abbey extended beyond these caves as more buildings were added. These caves are open to the public now and the most interesting one is known as the Last Judgement Cave due to the bas reliefs inside it.
There are many theories regarding the creators of the bas reliefs in this cave and their significance. One part, the Triumph of Death, dominated by an imposing figure, appears to have been altered by the monks to become a more structured representation of the Last Judgement. A reminder that everyone is equal in the face of death. Linked to the caves is the convent building, the largest one in the abbey complex.
The Abbaye de Brantôme Today
Since its inception in the ninth century the abbey has undergone several major periods of destruction and restoration. But the incorporation of the abbey into the town represents the most important development. The importance of the abbey as a place of worship and pilgrimage grew this attracted traders to the area and a settlement grew up on the other side of the Dronne River. The town acquired municipal status towards the end of the thirteenth century but could not separate themselves from the monastery for another three centuries. By then the monastery had become a workhouse. In 1850 there was a complete restoration of the monastery in attempt to unite the two factions physically. This included the destruction of three sides of the cloisters – a very unpopular move. Another bridge was built to link the two and the façade of the Abbey was restored in a manner that resembled a public building. This building now houses the Town Hall and the Fernand Desmoulin Museum. The museum is dedicated to Fernand Desmoulin a painter and illustrator of novels. Next to this building are the Abbey Church, Cloisters, Chapter House and the eleventh century Romanesque bell tower.
The Bell Tower in Brantôme
The four-storey Romanesque bell tower may give the appearance of being part of the medieval church in front of it but it is a separate building. It was built on an outcrop of front in front of the troglodyte caves. Dating from the eleventh century it is thought to be the oldest bell tower still standing in France. Visitors can climb the tower to admire the views of the town below. A small museum attached to the tower houses archaeological finds, religious artefacts and information about the town’s monastic and military history.
After leaving the Abbey complex, cross the sixteenth century stone bridge, Pont Notre Dame, to explore the narrow streets of the old town – but that’s another story.
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Valery Collins is the Experienced Traveller.
An excellent raconteur, Valery has been writing about her experiences on the road since she started travelling 30 years ago. After publishing four books she turned to online travel writing.