Calais, in France, has created a unique blend of modern and historical attractions that travellers should take time out to explore and enjoy.
The biggest transformation in the sea port of Calais, in the Pas de Calais region of France, has taken place along its sea front. A wide promenade fringing an extensive golden beach links a variety of free experiences. Easily accessible from the railway station Calais la Plage (Calais Beach) will delight all ages from adults strolling along its wide promenade to children romping in the safe places designed especially for them.
Calais la Plage
Innovative playgrounds, carefully constructed to suit different age groups, line a long promenade stretching for over a kilometre. They range from a climbing wall with balancing apparatus for toddlers to a large play area for all ages. There are also workout areas just off the beach and plenty of activities on the beach itself including volley ball. There is plenty of seating available for adults to keep an eye on the children. This street furniture has been cleverly positioned to face both the play spaces and the Opal Coast beyond. During the summer months Calais la Plage (Calais Seafront) the additions of food outlets and organised entertainment makes this area a lively hub of activities suitable for all ages. All-year-around activities include the Calais Beach Skatepark, a large free access skate park that has become very popular with the rider community due to its size and interesting design. But a very special treat, winter and summer is a ride on one of the Machines of Calais (charges apply) operated by the Compagnie du Dragon.
The Machines of Calais
Calais boasts two incredible huge roaming machines that enchant both children and adults alike, the Calais Dragon and the Travelling Varan a roaming monitor lizard. These massive new icons of Calais, examples of the art of urban theatre, have to be seen to be believed. They don’t simply convey their passengers on a sight-seeing circuit but also put on a performance. Spectators should be wary of getting too close in case the dragon spots you and drenches you with his ‘spit’. The concept of urban theatre was developed by François Delaroziere and his famous company, La Machine, His company is responsible for the creation of giant mechanical creatures including the Calais Dragon and the Varan of Calais. The Dragon of Calais roams the seafront and is accessible to those with mobility issues. A more agile Monitor Lizard does a longer tour discovering the heritage and architecture of Calais beyond its sea front. The dragon has been a symbol of Calais for many years and it is incorporated in the weather vane that tops the historic Belfry. Varan Perenti was the inspiration for the lizard and the pattern on his skin reflects an important aspect of the town – lace-making. A story beautifully relating in its Museum of Lace, Cité de la Dentelle (City of Lace and Fashion).
Cité de la Dentelle in Calais
The Cité de la Dentelle Museum is accessible via the Calais Majest'in river shuttle. It occupies an old lace factory in the Saint-Pierre district. A modern glass extension has been added to the old building, the perfect venue for temporary exhibitions. The building housing the permanent museum occupies three sides of a square courtyard with stair towers at the corners. When a collective factory was operational here, blinds covered every window so workers going up and down the stairs could not see what their competitors were doing. The museum tells the story of the widely renowned Calais-Caudry knotted lace. It features the monumental Leavers looms and demonstrations by former lace-making technicians or tullistes are a regular event.
The entire process of mechanical lace-making is related through the exhibits here from the card punching process to produce the patterns to the exquisite fashions that incorporate the lace. The museum also features workshops, a café and a shop. At one time the port of Calais and Saint Pierre, the lace-making district were two separate settlements. When they became one town the union was celebrated by the building of a new Hôtel de Ville a massive Town Hall and Belfry.
The Town Hall and Belfry of Calais
Calais Town Hall and Belfry were built to celebrate not just the unity of Calais and Saint-Pierre but also its architectural heritage. They were built on a sandy, open space hitherto used for fairs, thus changing a boundary to a link between the two places. Construction began in 1911 but was interrupted by the First World War. It was not completed until 1925. In 1895 Les Bourgeois de Calais, an extraordinary sculpture by Auguste Rodin was placed in front of the Town Hall. It was commissioned by the city of Calais in 1884 The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Calais (the Calais Museum of Fine Arts) has a room dedicated to the works of Rodin and shows the process involved in producing this celebration of the six martyrs who handed the keys of the city to the victorious English king at the end of the siege of 1346 – 47 during the Hundred Years’ War.
The Town Hall, an imposing neo-Renaissance building combines Flemish and Renaissance styles and boasts an impressive exterior and an elegant interior that reflects the craftmanship of the era. Although it is still an administrative building it is open to the public and features a Gallery of Honour, Wedding Room, Grand Salon, State Room and Municipal Council Room. All delightfully original in style and furnishings. It is linked to the Belfry by an arch.
The Belfry is a designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Climbing the stairs (there is a lift) to the top of the Belfry takes visitors on a journey through the centuries from the Middle Ages to liberation from English occupation in 1558. Golden statues decorate the four sides of the Belfry. They represent Francis of Lorraine, the Duke of Guise, liberator of Calais from English occupation. Four coloured dials of the clock, one on each side of the tower, are a reminder of the power vested by the control of time. A spectacular panoramic view of Calais from the top of the tower includes La Citadelle de Calais (Citadel of Calais),
La Citadelle de Calais
Originally, the Citadelle de Calais was a fortified castle built in the thirteenth century. Modifications were made over the centuries and it was transformed into a military garrison and the main defence of Calais. These modifications included the destruction of the castle at the end of the sixteenth century. The Calais garrison was housed in the citadel until 1940 when it was captured at the start of the German Occupation. It was heavily bombed during the war and lost its military role after the war ended. During the 1960s it was transformed into a place for walks and sports. At the same time the Stade du Souvenir (Remembrance Stadium) was inaugurated. It is dedicated to the local Resistance fighters who were detained, tortured, and in some cases died there. The Vauban Square, just inside the Neptune Gate (Jacques Vendroux Esplanade), borders the ramparts and is recommended. Close to the Town Hall is the Musée Mémoire 39-45 De Calais that tells the story of France during the occupation.
Musée Mémoire 39-45 De Calais
Musée Mémoire 39-45 De Calais (the 1939-1945 Memorial Museum) is located in the pretty Sainte Pierre Park opposite the Town Hall. It occupies a long bunker built by the Germans when they occupied France early in the Second World War. It was used as a communications centre and included accommodation for the staff. Today, twenty-three rooms exhibition rooms retrace the story of Calais during the Occupation from the invasion to liberation in 1944. One of these rooms is dedicated to the first major air battle in history. On display are two iconic fighter plane engines, the Spitfire and the Messerschmitt. Both were brought down from the sky above Calais. Another beautiful garden in Calais is the Tudor Garden that surrounds L’Eglise Notre-Dame de Calais (Notre-Dame of Calais Church) the oldest church in Calais.
L’Eglise Notre-Dame De Calais and Les Jardins Tudor
The Notre-Dame De Calais Church, the oldest in the city, is located in the area that was Calais during the Middle Ages. This imposing religious building was built at the beginning of the thirteenth century. It was enlarged in 1347 when the English took possession of Calais and is distinctive for its British architectural style. Since then, it has undergone several periods of reconstruction most notably during the 1960s to repair the damage is suffered during the Second World War. When the interior was renovated in 2016 Les Jardins Tudor (the Tudor Gardens) were added to promote its British character. Fragrant roses are woven through a typical English trellis arch in the Renaissance garden section. The mainland section of the Via Francigena, a pilgrimage route linking Canterbury to Rome, starts at this church. Anyone walking through the streets of Calais would have noticed some very impressive street art – a medium for which Calais has become renowned.
Street Art in Calais
Calais boasts around 100 large street art installations which are added to every year during the annual Calais Streat Art Festival. During this festival artists from France and around the world simultaneously create their own impression of one aspect of the town on the façades of buildings across the town. This has resulted in a permanent open-air art trail of these monumental frescoes. Guided tours are available but it is more fun to collect a map of the installations from the Tourist Information office and create your own trail. The quality of the work is outstanding and a particular favourite is the Wild Bride by the street artist. This depiction of a sea dog lost in thought is one of several of his evocative installations.
Calais is also famous for its delicious French cuisine and an excellent restaurant in the port area is Le Grande Blu. It takes pride in highlighting local ingredients in traditional dishes – a great place for lunch or dinner while in Calais.
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This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Calais
Valery Collins is the Experienced Traveller.
An excellent raconteur, Valery has been writing about her experiences on the road since she started travelling 30 years ago. After publishing four books she turned to online travel writing.