St Moritz in the Swiss Alps may be considered a glitzy, glamorous place to stay but its special quality is its unique accessibility to all.
St Moritz achieved worldwide fame as a haven for winter sports during the latter part of the nineteenth century. But 3,000 years before that it had already become well known as a spa following the discovery of mineral springs. Surrounded by the snow-capped peaks of the Grison Alps and the blue lakes of the Upper Engadine Valley this pretty Swiss town has much to offer its visitors during the summer months. Its legally protected emblem, the sun, reflects a reputation for plenty of sunny days. Since 1930 this simple emblem has been associated with the town and appears everywhere – even on the froth of my coffee.
The architecture of the town is a fascinating mix of epochs and eras and little has changed since the Swiss architect Nicolaus Hartmann left his distinctive mark on the town. In 1903 Hartmann inherited the independent construction and engineering company established by his father (same name) in St Moritz. Hartmann’s works and designs are still very much a part of St Moritz, a testimony to the company’s ‘built to last’ philosophy. Hartmann was responsible for the town’s Rhaetian Railway station. The latter is the hub for two famous alpine train journeys – the Glacier Express and the Bernina Express line, a UNESCO route. The façade of the railway station is mirrored in that of the Grace La Margna Hotel that overlooks it.
Grace La Margna Hotel in St Moritz
St Moritz is renowned for its large, impressive five-star hotels which include such famous names as the Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, the Klum Hotel and the Kempinski Hotel. When Hartmann created the La Margna Hotel his approach was very different. He was not very keen on the architecture of the hotel palaces in his home town as he felt they were lacking in regional character. When he built the smaller Hotel La Margna in 1906 in the style of Art Nouveau it was considered the flagship of Engadin Art Nouveau architecture. A local style that has survived to this day. This lovely, five-star, hotel is now part of the independent Grace chain and was reconstructed in 2023 when a new wing was added. The original façade fronts a tasteful, modern interior. A clever collaboration of luxury and informality and fabulous facilities make it the ideal accommodation for a summer break in St Moritz. Non-residents are welcome in its elegant bar to enjoy a cocktail or its acclaimed bar menu. The hotel is at the far end of Via Serlas, the town’s famous shopping street.
Shopping in St Moritz
Via Serlas provides the best in luxury shopping experiences. St Moritz is home to many of the world’s most famous designer stores as well as top-end watch and jewellery stores. Look out for bargains in their summer sales. Just around the corner on Via Maistra the Pur Alps gourmet market boasts it offers the best local produce. The neatly stocked shelves display food and wine bought directly from surrounding farms and vineyards. This produce is used in the fresh dishes made by the Pur Alps bistro next door. On the same street, in front of the Kulm Hotel, is a memorial to Jules Bylandt who died on the Cresta Run in 1907. Visitors can learn more about the Cresta Run in a museum in the Scala Building nearby.
The Scala Building in St Moritz
The elegant Art Deco style Scala Building, legendary home to the Scala cinema, has undergone a revival. It is now home to the unique Cresta & Bob Museum which relates the history of the two legendary runs in St Moritz, the Cresta Run and the Olympic Bob Run. The bob run which opened in 1904 is the oldest bobsleigh run still being used in the world and the last of the natural ice tracks. A section of the bob run has been re-created in the museum. It also relates the stories of the two Winter Olympics hosted by St Moritz in 1928 and 1948. There is a new Scala Cinema, the Scala Restaurant and an OMEGA boutique here as well. St Moritz also features several other museums including the Engadine Museum and the Segantini Museum.
The Museums of St Moritz
Hartmann, the Swiss architect from St Moritz, was also responsible for building two museums in the town. The design of the Engadine Museum, built on Via dal Bagn in 1908, was based on a traditional Engadine house and its 21 rooms displayed interiors and furnishings of the past five centuries. Renovation of this museum in 2016 added new collections and a permanent exposition of the Romansh language. Nearby, on Via Somplaz is the Segantini Museum, also created by Hartmann in 1908. This unusual building has been expanded three times and houses an important collection of the works of the artist Giovanni Segantini. The newly restored Forum Paracelsus is all about the mineral springs in St Moritz and the Berry Museum, located in the 100-year-old Villa Arona is dedicated to local artist Peter Robert Berry. Back in the centre of town rest and refreshment await at the renowned Café Hanselmann.
Café Hanselmann in St Moritz
Four generations of the Hanselmann family have run the bakery and café in an elegant frescoed building. It is possible that English guests at the bakery requested permission to use the family’s private apartment which probably became the first tea room in St Moritz. It could also have been the first coffee house in Switzerland. Inside this spacious café guests can enjoy delicious pastries including the rich, luscious Engadine nut cake. Swiss chocolates are also sold here. Next to the café is the St. Mauritius fountain and behind it the town’s City Hall.
City Hall in St Moritz
The City Hall of St Moritz is based in the old Hotel Savoy which the municipality bought in 1947. Administrative offices were established inside the building and a café fronts the building. Tourist information is one of the many services provided for local inhabitants and visitors here. In front of the City Hall, on Main Street, is the St Mauritius Fountain. St Mauritius, also known as St Maurice, was, legend has it, the leader of a Theban Legion of Christian Roman soldiers. His martyrdom, along with his comrades, inspired the cult of St Mauritius and the Theban Legion still practised today in Switzerland. There has been a church dedicated to St Mauritius in St Moritz since the twelfth century. All that remains of the original church is its leaning tower.
The Leaning Tower of St Moritz
A leaning tower is all that remains of the twelfth century church dedicated to St Mauritius. Initially, a few houses were grouped around this church – they were to become the village of St Moritz. Ownership of this church passed to the Protestants during the Reformation in 1577. From 1841 to 1867 Catholics were allowed to have services there. Nevertheless, this church became so dilapidated it had to be demolished in 1893. Only its tower remains. It was replaced by the Catholic church of St Mauritius, built in 1867 on Via Maistra.
The Catholic church of St Mauritius was renovated in 1973 and it was than a chapel was carved out of the rock beneath the church. A majestic tower, topped by a winged figure in chrome, was completed in 198. Although renowned as a village steeped in tradition St Moritz was chosen by the architect Lord Norman Foster for his house of the future, Chesa Futura.
Chesa Futura in St Moritz
Built in 2004 this extraordinary building that looks as though it dropped out of space, combines an avant-garde design with traditional building materials. Larch shingles cover the exterior of the building. Inside are ten exclusive private suites. No wonder it has become a tourist attraction. And a complete contrast to the oldest building in town, Chesa Veglia.
Chesa Veglia in St Moritz
A charming Engadin farmhouse in the centre of town, dating back to 1658, is the oldest building in St Moritz. Today it comprises three restaurants and two bars. Its traditional Patrizier Stuben has been a favourite in St Moritz since 1936. Guests enjoy a rustic ambience while savouring regional dishes such as capuns or pizzocheri. And after dinner here perhaps a stroll along the path that leads down to Lake St Moritz. A huge lake offering many opportunities for outdoor adventures. And perfect for an evening stroll to end a day exploring St Moritz.
For more information about St Moritz click here.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity.com To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours in St Moritz
Valery Collins is the Experienced Traveller . An excellent raconteur, Valery has been writing about her experiences on the road since she started travelling 28 years ago. After publishing four books she turned to online travel writing and now contributes to several online publications.
