A Garrison, Gigs, Goats and Glass Fusion on St Mary’s in Scilly

St Mary’s Island is the largest of the Isles of Scilly, a small archipelago just 28 miles across the Atlantic Ocean from the tip of Cornwall in England. Its sandy beaches and diverse habitats rich in flora and fauna have made it a popular destination.

Only five of the 140 islands of Scilly are inhabited. Entry to these islands is via St Mary’s either by ferry from Penzance, flights from Exeter or Newquay or helicopter from Lands’ End in Cornwall. A co-operative of ferries and private boat companies make it easy to travel between the islands but St Mary’s has plenty to keep its visitors interested and entertained for several days. The capital of Scilly, Hugh Town is on St Mary’s and features a sixteenth century castle. This castle has been a hotel since 1932 but the large garrison that surrounds it is open to the public.

The Garrison on St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly

Star Castle, named for its shape, stands proud on The Hugh, a promontory above St Mary’ Harbour. Sir Francis Godolphin, then Governor of Scilly, built the castle in 1593-4. He added a granite wall to protect the land side of the island but it was not until 1742 that The Garrison surrounding the castle was completely enclosed inside a wall. Scilly has been part of the Duchy of Cornwall since the fourteenth century which still owns most of the freehold. Until 1830 the islands were ruled by the incumbent of the leasehold known as The Governor. Once that lease was surrendered in 1830, government of the island changed and the islands began to prosper with increased trading activity and the introduction of flower farms. In 1891 the Council of the Isles of Scilly was formed and for the first time residents were able to elect their own representatives. As a sui generis council, it has wide-ranging powers, equivalent to those of a county council allowing it to meet the needs of the islands and their inhabitants. The circular walk around The Garrison is a journey through its history.

The walk follows the walls of the Garrison. It is an easy walk with regular view points and places of interest. Despite their strategic position, the front line for ships coming across the Atlantic Ocean to the UK, the Isles of Scilly have only been attacked once – during the English Civil War. The islands were a Royalist stronghold but were taken over by Parliamentarians who ruled, spasmodically, until the monarchy was restored. Large numbers of troops were stationed on St Mary’s during both World Wars. Pill boxes were added to eighteenth century batteries and some survive to this day. As the islands were never attacked life went on as normal during both wars, although eligible young men were called up and those who died are commemorated in both the Old Town and Hugh Town on the island. While enjoying the views across the harbour visitors may see the unique six-seater pilot gigs out on the water.

The Pilot Gigs of the Isles of Scilly

Pilot gigs are an important part of the heritage of St Mary’s. The first ones were built around 1830. They seat 6 oarsmen who sit with their backs to a coxswain who does the guiding and encouraging. Each of the inhabited islands would have had several of these boats and when incoming ships were viewed on the horizon there would be a race to get their pilot on board to perform this lucrative task. The gigs were also used as lifeboats (rescuing people and useful flotsam) and conveyors of contraband. As gigs became redundant a few owners started racing them and this has developed from local races (which still take place) to the world championship which attracts around 150 gigs. These are organised around the May Day Bank Holiday every year. The rules are strict and in particular the gigs must be made from wood to the correct specifications. Some of these beautiful boats can be seen in the gig shed on Porthmellon Beach or out at sea when the crews practice. Close to this shed are the Phoenix Craft Studios, a showcase for local handicrafts.

Glass Fusion and other Crafts on St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly

The Phoenix Craft Studios is a co-operative of craftspeople in individual studios. These include the studio of Oriel Hicks a specialist in stained glass and glass fusion. Her beautiful stained glass windows have been installed in the churches on Bryer and St Agnes. Oriel runs workshops on glass fusion. These include a demonstration of this skill – placing pre-cut pieces of coloured glass on a transparent base and then heating them until they fuse together. Participants are able to create their own work of art, for example, a key ring using this technique. It is an interesting and entertaining experience resulting in a personal souvenir of St Mary’s. The other studios here feature original screenprints and linocuts inspired by the islands’ wildlife and marine heritage, pictures made from the off-cuts from the Rat Bags Canvas Shop (makers of bespoke canvas bags) and Scilly Scarves, a colourful collection of silk scarves. The studios are a real treasure trove for anyone seeking an original hand-made souvenir from St Mary’s. The island has an abundance of walking trails and while walking through the conservation areas visitors may encounter the Scilly Billies.

The Scilly Billies of St Mary’s, isles of Scilly

The Scilly Billies are a small group of English goats that have been brought to St Mary’s as part of a conservation grazing programme. This initiative has been set up by the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust to control invasive scrub (bracken and gorse) and boost biodiversity. They also use small groups of Ruby Red cattle for this purpose rented to them by a local farmer. Grazing animals is a much better alternative to the use of machinery. Meeting the Scilly Billies was one of the highlights of my stay on St Mary’s. Tramping across the open expanse of heathland, the sun on my face, a breeze tugging at my hair and surrounded by stunning landscapes. I was part of a small, organised group accompanied by Darren, a ranger from the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust. Darren was able to identify the exact location where a group of four neutered males were grazing thanks to the no-fence GPS collar system they use to confine them. Not only does this system record their location it also confines them to a limited area by sending a warning signal to a goat that is about to cross the boundary. These goats are very friendly and will come and say hello to passers-by. Simon, the leader of the pack, is very approachable.

A visit to the Isles of Scilly is a unique adventure, for further information brows the Visit the Isles of Scilly by clicking here. My memorable, in-depth visit was organised by GeoCultura – click here for more information.